2017 Barbera d'Alba Superiore
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This wine carries the fantasy name "Viola delle Viole," when in fact, its fruit comes from the Bricco delle Viole vineyard and the Bricco Bertone, two sites with different soil types, one adding structure and one adding aromatic purity. The G.D. Vajra 2017 Barbera d'Alba Superiore Viola delle Viole opens to an inky almost impenetrable appearance. The bouquet opens to robust aromas of blackberry jam and cherry preserves. You feel the heat and richness of the vintage, and there's no way around it. The 2017 growing season produced very concentrated fruit with smaller berry size due to heat and drought. In effect, you get a super-sized Barbera that ups the ante in terms of extraction and intensity. There is a point of almost-sweetness on the close followed by good acidity. A pairing with marinated or spicy barbecued meat might work best. Some 12,000 bottles were released. Honestly, I'm not a fan of overripe wines, but I make an exception with Barbera because this grape handles the warmest growing seasons with grace and always offers enough acidity to balance things out.
Critic scores
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Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
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The 2017 Barbera d'Alba Superiore is plush, racy and flat-out delicious. Raspberry jam, cinnamon, dried flowers, sweet tobacco and cedar all flesh out in a forward, plush Barbera that will drink well right out the gate. The Superiore always needs a few years to fully emerge. I imagine that will be the case here as well. Even so, the 2017 is an especially open-knit version of this wine.