2015 Barolo Percristina
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Monforte d’Alba. Lustrous, maturing ruby with narrow bricky rim. Rich nose that is still not entirely open. Iron and damson and a hint of gingerbread. Polished, concentrated and juicy on the palate. Still amazingly youthful and with gorgeous chewy tannins. Definitely needs decanting – or another couple of years in bottle. (WS)
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Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
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Released 10 years after the harvest with only 2,500 bottles and 100 magnums produced, the Domenico Clerico 2015 Barolo Percristina shows good concentration, a dark garnet appearance and aromas of cherry liqueur, sweet licorice and dried rose potpourri. The high 15% alcohol content does stand out but remains well integrated into the thicker, open-knit texture of this warm-vintage Nebbiolo. This estate has made efforts to reduce the oak impact on its wines, and these tweaks had already started by 2015. Fruit comes from the Mosconi cru with southern exposures at 350 meters in elevation. Percristina is fermented in stainless steel and matured in barrique and botte grande for five years, plus an additional five years in bottle. The tannins remain firm 10 years later.
A complex and slightly old-fashioned wine with dark, layered aromas of prunes, truffles and tar. The attack is dense, with a full body and firm, velvety tannins. It’s thick and extracted yet condensed, sustained by crisp acidity. A long umami finish that’s polished and relaxing. Drink or hold.