2021 Molino Real Montain Wine
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Tasting notes
2021 was a magical year in many parts of Spain. In the Málaga Mountains the winter was cold and snowy, followed by a warm spring, copious rain in early August followed by a heat wave that reduced the crop and resulted in one of their shortest harvests, which started the 16th of August. The 2021 Molino Real, from a year they consider exceptional, shows insultingly young and undeveloped but super clean and precise, with great balance, length and persistence. It usually comes from older vines from some specific vineyards, but it's not something fixed; it depends on the year and on grapes that deliver more nuance, layers of aromas and flavors and more depth. The process also adds complexity, as well as fine tannins, structure and the lactic/creamy/buttery side that is always found when the wine is young. It has all the textbook descriptors, syrup, balsamic/minty and creamy/buttery, with the core of orange blossom and candied orange peel. It's young and tender. It could be drunk now, but it should develop a lot more complexity and nuance with time in bottle. Coming back from the Old Mountain, the nose shows high-pitched notes of fennel and aniseed. A total of 2,581 half bottles (375 milliliters instead of the 500 milliliters up until this vintage) were filled in August 2021.
Critic scores
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Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Full bottle 1,196 g. In 1995, Telmo Rodríguez and his business partner Pablo Eguzkia established Molino Real in Málaga with a view to reviving the region’s ‘Mountain Wine’. Located in Axarquía in the east of Málaga, the vineyards are grown at some of the highest elevations in this area, between 550 and 1,000 m, in the villages of Cómpeta and Archez. This region is the driest of the five subzones of Málaga, and is also well-known for raisin production from the DO Pasas de Málaga. Shallow, stony and fine-textured soil suits the bush-vine Muscat of Alexandria. The grapes were hand harvested and then pressed using a traditional, artisanal method: the grapes were placed between two mats made from esparto (a straw-like material) and then crushed using an olive-oil press. The wine was then aged in bottle for 9–12 months before being released. Mountain Wine was traditionally a sweet style but this is a dry version. (MR is the sweet version.) Intense grapey aroma, but also wild herbs and vibrant green fruits. On the day after opening there's a slight fumey/herbal aroma, not unlike spontaneously fermented Riesling. Bone dry but gives a slight impression of sweetness because of the grapey charater. Full and generous in the mouth, almost viscous, but still surprisingly fresh. Intense, long and aromatic on the palate. This may not appeal to everyone but it's a classic wine of the region, even if the dry style is less usual. Fascinating and complex. I am not sure how this will age so I have been rather cautious in my suggested drinking window. (JH)
About the producer
In 1994, Telmo Rodríguez and Pablo Eguzkiza made their first wine together. This was the beginning of Compañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez, their joint project that looks to uncover the “real” Spain, working with old vineyards and indigenous varieties to recover the nation’s vinous heritage.
Product details
Muscat of Alexandria/Moscatell
White
Dry