2016 Clos de la Roche

(Duband vinified his 2016 grand crus with 90% whole clusters, leaving "a bit of fruit for juiciness"): Good full red. Much tighter on the nose than the Echézeaux, currently dominated by minerality. Densely packed and quite primary, with its dark cherry, brown spice and underbrush flavors framed by harmonious acidity. The wine's crushed rock component contributes to the impression of inner-mouth lift. This penetrating grand cru spreads out subtly to take over the palate, with the finish featuring rather powerful, building tannins and a youthfully medicinal quality. (The Latricières-Chambertin had been racked three days before my visit.)