2017 Corton Charlemagne

This shows aromas of dried apple, stone, oyster shell and a hint of lemon zest, following through to a full body that’s tight and layered with gorgeous honey and chamomile. Complex and satisfying already. Drink after 2024, but hard to wait. Only 1,500 bottles made.

He’s been making this since 2001. Half a hectare, planted 1929. In the 1990s he advised the owner on organics but Pacalet does not now look after the vines. Bottled two weeks ago. Rich and creamy on the nose. Mealy and full in the mouth but spritely with freshness. That gentian bitterness that makes it really mouth-watering. Power and depth but not fat. Really sinewy and long. Tightly wound. (JH)