2009 Arbossar

The 2009 L’Arbossar comes from a single 1.6-hectare north-facing vineyard of 89-year-old vines in Torroja del Priorat. Once again, it has life-affirming delineation and clarity on the nose with dark berries, garrigue, rosemary and thyme. The well-defined palate possesses crisp tannins and great minerality, everything finely controlled with an earthy, sandalwood finish that abides by the maxim that “less is more.” Drink 2014-2028. I must confess that prior to tasting the wines, I wondered whether “Terroir Al Limit” would live up to its name. Terroir taken to the limit? I prefer wines taken to optimums rather than limits. My worries were unfounded. I reveled in these stunning Priorats sculpted by the talented hand of South African superstar Eben Sadie. These are wines that offer intensity of flavor instead of overwhelming power, and elegance and personality on a world-class level. I absconded with a couple of bottles, putting them to the test over a dinner, and they duly mellowed and expanded with aeration, melting into sublime, almost nubile wines that effortlessly seduced the senses. In other words: I like them. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565