2017 Dalmau Reserva

Glistening ruby. Deeply perfumed, smoke-accented cherry liqueur and blueberry aromas are complicated by building floral, vanilla and exotic spice accents. Sappy, sweet and broad on the palate, offering densely packed black and blue fruit, licorice, mocha and floral pastille flavors that slowly become spicier as the wine opens up. Shows excellent clarity on the long, oak-spiced finish, which is framed by smooth, polished tannins.

It might not be my favorite style, and the vintage might not be the best ever, but the 2017 Dalmau Reserva is a serious and age-worthy red. It was produced with 80% Tempranillo and 10% each Graciano and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Pago Canalejas within the Ygay Estate, nine hectares planted back in 1945 at 465 meters in altitude. Each variety, harvested at different times in the second half of September, fermented separately after being destemmed and lightly crushed for 11 days at a controlled temperature, the Tempranillo in stainless steel and the Graciano and the Cabernet Sauvignon in small French oak vats. It matured in French oak barrels for 19 months. What I tasted was not yet bottled, but it was in concrete waiting for the 2020 harvest to finish to be bottled. The samples I tasted have a lot more Graciano, and they are taking more risk, going for more concentration, body and structure, trying to keep the elegance. It's dark and it's very powerful, very spicy but not really dominated by the Cabernet (other vintages have had a lot more Cabernet), and I see more of the Graciano in the blend than the Cabernet; it has the power. It has marked tannins and feels hard and still too young and undeveloped, and I think it will take even longer to be ready than previous vintages. This feels very powerful, so I would wait a few years for it. It will be bottled at 14.5% alcohol. Some 17,000 bottled produced.