2014 Montrachet Grand Cru

(there's just a single 350-liter barrel of this juice, made from vines planted along a north-south axis): Bright, light yellow. Reduced aromas of apricot, peach, iodine and grilled, smoky oak. Large-scaled, solid and sweet but with strong lemony acidity and iodiney crushed-stone character enlivening the stone fruit and orange blossom flavors. At once powerful and airy, finishing with a tannic impression and outstanding extract and length. This wine may well need a decade in barrel to digest its oak. Incidentally, Rémy told me he uses 15% new oak for the village wines, 20% for his premier crus and 25% for the grand crus.