2020 Barolo Ravera
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Tasting notes
Youthful ripe ruby in color, the 2020 Barolo Ravera shows off a sweet perfume of preserved strawberries, ripe peaches, candied roses, fresh herbs, and oregano. Medium-bodied, it floats on the palate with a mouthwatering feel, fine tannins, and an elegantly long finish. This is a very pretty wine to enjoy over the next 10-15 years. Elvio Cogno founded his eponymous estate in 1991, after working for 30 years in partnership with Marcarini with the labels of Cogno-Marcarini. Originally from Novello, he had an opportunity to purchase the winery farmhouse, Cascina Nuova, located in the commune of Novello, in the heart of the Ravera Cru (MGA). That same year, he put Ravera on the map by producing the first-ever bottling of Barolo labeled as Ravera. They currently operate and own 16 hectares of vines, 11 of which are within the Cru of Ravera, and the remaining 5 hectares are parcels around the Novello Comune. Today the estate is run by Elvio’s son-in-law, Valter Fissore, and his daughter Nadia, who took over in 1996. In the vineyards, they continue to push forward, working to improve vineyard health and implement organic farming practices while adapting to the region's changing climate conditions. The total annual production is approximately 120,000 bottles. Their key holdings include the pre-phylloxera Barbera sourced from Berri on the western edge of La Morra, from 130-year-old vines. They survive because of the sandier soils and the cooler microclimate, which sees more wind coming off the river to the west. Less than 2000 bottles are produced each year. The Barolo from Bricco Pernice is a warmer microclimate within Ravera, as it is sheltered from the winds coming off the mountains, with soils that are a higher proportion of limestone compared to the other plots within Ravera. Bricco Pernice is entirely composed of the Lampia clone of Nebbiolo. Also within Ravera, Elvio planted Vigna Elena in 1991, the same year Valter and Nadia’s daughter Elena was born. It is a triangle-shaped parcel, uniquely planted exclusively to the Rose clone of Nebbiolo, whereas the rest of their Nebbiolo vines are composed of Michet and Lampia clones. In 2005, they had the opportunity to work with Bordini in Neive to begin producing their Barbaresco.
Critic scores
Average Score
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
The Elvio Cogno 2020 Barolo Ravera is a plush and fleshed-out expression with dark fruit, dried cherry, plum, sweet iris root, earth, toast and dark spice. The wine is quite firm, and there is a nice sense of richness that covers the palate. This wine sees fruit from across the estate's 2.5-hectare MGA site, and 15,000 bottles were released.
Crushed stones, raspberries, licorice and allspice on the nose. Itâs vibrant, tight and mineral with a medium to full body and firm, tight and steely tannins. Let it unravel. Try after 2028.
The 2020 Barolo Ravera is laced with dried fruit, worn-in leather, dried herbs, white pepper, spice and dried herbs. The Ravera has just enough fruit and mid-palate to provide a measure of balance. Sadly, its balance remains awkward. Stems are overdone here.