2019 Barolo Bricco Pernice
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Tasting notes
A youthful red brick color, the 2019 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice has a phenomenal nose, delivering notes of polished leather, dried strawberries, cedar, mint, and lilacs. Taking on a more noble structure, this medium to full-bodied Barolo offers broader-shouldered tannins, a chiseled feel with ripe, rich tannins, and an earth-driven finish. It’s a fantastic wine to cellar and enjoy over the next two decades. Elvio Cogno founded his eponymous estate in 1991, after working for 30 years in partnership with Marcarini with the labels of Cogno-Marcarini. Originally from Novello, he had an opportunity to purchase the winery farmhouse, Cascina Nuova, located in the commune of Novello, in the heart of the Ravera Cru (MGA). That same year, he put Ravera on the map by producing the first-ever bottling of Barolo labeled as Ravera. They currently operate and own 16 hectares of vines, 11 of which are within the Cru of Ravera, and the remaining 5 hectares are parcels around the Novello Comune. Today the estate is run by Elvio’s son-in-law, Valter Fissore, and his daughter Nadia, who took over in 1996. In the vineyards, they continue to push forward, working to improve vineyard health and implement organic farming practices while adapting to the region's changing climate conditions. The total annual production is approximately 120,000 bottles. Their key holdings include the pre-phylloxera Barbera sourced from Berri on the western edge of La Morra, from 130-year-old vines. They survive because of the sandier soils and the cooler microclimate, which sees more wind coming off the river to the west. Less than 2000 bottles are produced each year. The Barolo from Bricco Pernice is a warmer microclimate within Ravera, as it is sheltered from the winds coming off the mountains, with soils that are a higher proportion of limestone compared to the other plots within Ravera. Bricco Pernice is entirely composed of the Lampia clone of Nebbiolo. Also within Ravera, Elvio planted Vigna Elena in 1991, the same year Valter and Nadia’s daughter Elena was born. It is a triangle-shaped parcel, uniquely planted exclusively to the Rose clone of Nebbiolo, whereas the rest of their Nebbiolo vines are composed of Michet and Lampia clones. In 2005, they had the opportunity to work with Bordini in Neive to begin producing their Barbaresco.
Critic scores
Average Score
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Jeb Dunnuck
More reviews and scores
The Elvio Cogno 2019 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice starts off with earthy notes, with the fruity ones pouring in a little later. You get potting soil, bow resin, a hint of petroleum, blue bells and mountain flowers. Fruit-wise, there is plenty of plum and blackcurrant. There is an almost green tone of rhubarb or cruciferous vegetable. The Bricco Pernice cleans up in the mouth, with super grippy tannins that need more bottle age. Only 5,000 bottles were made.
The 2019 Barolo Bricco Pernice shows a ton of stem influence because of its 100% whole clusters. I find the fruit dried-out and the tannins searing in their punishing intensity. Rose petal, dried herbs, white pepper, mint and exotic spice struggle to emerge. There's not much pleasure here. If anything, the Bricco Pernice makes an eloquence case against the use of whole clusters here.
Novello. 100% whole-bunch fermentation and with 40 days on the skins with cappello sommerso (submerged cap). Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. A stunning, layered and complex nose loaded with raspberry fruit, saline, minerally notes and a hint of leather. Compact, yet lush, succulent cherry and raspberry fruit that is slow to unfurl and long, grainy tactile tannins. Mouth-filling, and yet not heavy at all. (WS)