2023 Corton Charlemagne

This solid, satisfying wine boasts ripe pear, apricot and quince aromas, with hints of hawthorn, butter and spice. The texture is almost massive, perhaps a touch four-square, but it should gain in elegance as it ages in bottle. The grapes come from a trade with a friend in Pernand; they are gently pressed and fermented in cask (30% new), where they will remain for 14 months, followed by another four in tank. This majestic wine will open with time; give it seven years before opening, and drink over the next 30.

The 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a cuvée that never really enamors itself to me. Following the superb Clos de Caillerets, it doesn't deliver the same complexity and energy. The palate is balanced with modest weight but lacks acidity and concentration on the finish. I tasted better from the hillside this vintage.