2023 Gevrey Chambertin Les Combottes
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Matthew Hayes, jancisrobinson.com
Allen Meadows, Burghound
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The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes finished its malolactic in September, so it's no surprise that it was one of the most inscrutable wines of the tasting. Offering up aromas of cassis and spices, it showed good fruit and underlying structure, but to say much more would be an exercise in more than usually creative writing.
The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes 1er Cru was quite reductive during its élevage. That is evident on the nose—it doesn't quite have the delineation and mineralité of the best vintages of this cuvée. The palate is medium-bodied with a powdery textured opening. There's not much in the way of grip and it's a little ephemeral considering the esteemed vineyard in question. Hopefully, it will gain weight during the second winter. I will defer scoring this cuvée for now.
About the producer

Domaine Dujac is one of Burgundy’s most famous wine estates. It crafts red Burgundies with a distinct style, from a fantastic array of vineyard plots, including seven Grands Crus.