2023 Bourgogne Rouge
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Tasting notes
The 2023 Bourgogne Rouge offers crunchy blackberry and raspberry fruit on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins and good body, though it is just a little abrupt on the finish. For the first time in 27 years visiting wineries around the world, I committed the cardinal sin and smashed a glass in front of Leroux. Is that a portent that 2025 will be an easier vintage than 2024? Maybe I was too excited about the wine? Anyway, I managed to taste nearly all of Leroux's comprehensive range of whites and reds. With just under 50 cuvées, it is a long yet insightful tasting across various appellations, Leroux always open with his opinions. The winery itself accommodates an impressive array of vessels. As well as regular pièces, there are 500-liter barrels, a fleet of foudres, a smattering of Clayver and two racks of WineGlobes. We discussed the latter, which are becoming increasingly popular, and he feels positive about their use, utilizing them partially in the second year of élevage to instill more purity. I asked Leroux about the 2023 growing season and, apart from some hail in Meursault, he quipped how they could have had two crops. “The biggest challenge was to control the yield,” he continues, “so we de-budded and conducted two green harvests. We started picking on August 30 and fortunately, we picked the early-ripening whites before the heat wave that had not been forecasted. We had been thinking of starting on September 4. We picked very quickly. Yields just top 50 hl/ha. The whites are resting on their lees in vat. Some [entry-level wines] have already been bottled, but most will be bottled next year.”
Critic scores
Average Score
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Neal Martin, Vinous
More reviews and scores
From vines principally in Pommard, Volnay and Meursault also, with 10% from Monthelie and Monthelie premier cru. 15,000 bottles produced and matured in 10 12-hl casks and 10 228-litre barrels, 10% new. Cask sample. Mid ruby. Sweet cherry and raspberry on the nose and palate. Dry. Compact, rounded fruit, very Côte de Beaune. Lively acidity. (MH)
The 2023 Bourgogne Rouge offers crunchy blackberry and raspberry fruit on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins and good body, though it is just a little abrupt on the finish.
In bottle. Quite a rich purple. Slightly more graphite than fruit on the nose. The real wine emerges much more on the palate, quite rich dark red fruit with adequate acidity and certainly some length. Now there is fruit on the nose. Floral too, with the dark red fruit following up behind. Well balanced with good grip and quite special length.