NV Marie Courtin Efflorescence Extra Brut

A pure 2008 Pinot aged in older barrique, the Marie Courtin NV Extra Brut Efflorescence 080113ND features apple and lemon strongly tinged with their piquant pips, and mingled in a briny, alkaline, seawater-like mineral bath. Toasted nuts and hints of wood resin inflect a palate firmer and exhibiting less charm or succulence of fruit than did other of Moreau’s wines that I tasted alongside. That said, this finishes with forceful length and compulsive saliva inducement. I would plan to employ it over the next year or two. Dominique Moreau created her estate – named for a grandmother – in 2005, and is one of the increasingly numerous growers fluently witnessing to the potential of the Cotes des Bar’s Kimmeridgian belt by growing her fruit biodynamically and showcasing it in vintage- and vineyard-specific bottlings vinified with minimal sulfur (usually a smidgeon each in the press and at bottling), and typically finished without dosage. A horrendous June storm (on the heels of a hail-laden predecessor days earlier) rendered it impossible this year for me to spend time with her in her vineyards, but fortunately the bottles she had set out for me to taste were still chilly despite loss of power, and they stole the show even from the outdoor natural drama. Lot numbers on Marie Courtin labels refer to the vintage in question; followed by the month and year of disgorgement; then reference to dosage (or rather, in most instances at this address, its absence). Incidentally, the prevalence of “non-vintage” yet single vintage-dedicated bottlings especially among young growers in the Aube arises from their choosing – or, in many cases, needing for financial reasons – to disgorge the wines too soon to qualify under Champagne regulations for official “vintage” status. Thomas Calder Selections, Paris (with various importers); fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29, importers include Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404 and Joli Vin, Emeryville, CA; tel. (415) 308-2460