2023 Pouilly Fume Cuvee Majorum

Sourced from over 50-year-old vines, the 2023 Marjorum is full of tension and power. It has a succulent start before tying up nicely with a hint of good bitterness showing its different terroirs: two-thirds clay-chalk and one-third flint. An apple-scented, slightly oxidative pastry note emerges alongside dried fruit and a touch of spicy chili from the smoky flint. This is a real primary style with puppy fat. There's no doubting its seriousness on the finish. This is a little reticent now, but a couple more years in bottle will allow it to open up more fully.