2006 Vosne Romanee Beaumonts

Rouget's 2006 Vosne-Romanee Les Beaumonts ratchets-up the concentration from that of the corresponding village wine, while adding to the ripely black-fruited, floral, and umami-laden virtues of that wine high-toned herbal essences (sassafras for one), gingery spiciness, peppery pungency, and a decidedly stony, chalky undertone that makes for some sense of severity. The tannins here are so fine-grained and well woven into the fabric as to go almost unnoticed. This displays the cut and vivacity of a white wine, or at least of a cross-dresser like Barbera. Charred meats, crushed stones, pepper, and concentrated of herbs and ripe black fruits make for a finish of whip-snapping impact and almost smarting persistence, yet at the same time invigorating refreshment. Like its grower, this wine is not about charm or blandishment. Strap yourself to a few bottles of it (or vice versa) and get ready for an enthralling (minimum) 10-12 year ride. It reminds me of Rouget's stealth 1991 Beaumonts at the same stage (one must say "stealth" given the vintage's lack of fame). Naturally, there will be some who demur, but I trust I've conveyed the style of this wine well enough to serve as warning to them. Emmanuel Rouget was very pleased with the "unusually long evolution" of his youthful 2006s – which I last tasted on the eve of bottling – rendered possible not just by the frigid temperature of his relatively shallow cellars, he explained, but also by what for this vintage are impressively low pHs. Even after slight chaptalization, he says the present collection scarcely exceeds 13% alcohol. These factors no doubt help account for the balance of ripe flavors and textural polish with cut and vivacity that the 2006s here display, rendering them – as Rouget puts it – "more precise, fresh, and elegant" than his 2005s, in which respect they remind him of his 1996s. "If you compare them directly today, my 2005s almost taste heavy by comparison with these 2006s," he notes. Moreover, my own impression is that the current crop of wines has proven more resistant to the same levels of new oak – 50-100% – as were used on his 2005s (whereas the 2004s received nada). "I think that impression is on account of the acidity," of the 2006s, opines Rouget, adding "for me the acidity of Pinot is more important than the alcohol. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400