2013 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre
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Tasting notes
Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Brouilland. The 2013 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre has a more reserved, perhaps earthier bouquet than its peers, more introverted but I appreciate the definition and it appears to gain vigor in the glass as it aerates. The palate is fresh and crisp with green apple, pear and bitter lemon notes. There is good weight here even if it just lacks the persistence that I would have expected. Tasted May 2016.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Pale, green-tinged yellow. Classic Chablis aromas of citrus peel and oyster-shell minerality. Supple, fine-grained and very harmonious, with firm minerality lending shape and finesse to the citrus and spice flavors. This is more Montée de Tonnerre than 2013 in style, which is all to the good. Finishes smooth but with noteworthy energy and grip and lingering minerality. This very precise wine transcends its vintage.
Slight stony, green-apple aroma. More presence on the palate than the Montmains, lean, clean, citrusy finish. (JH)
The 2013 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre is one of the most reticent wines in this range, but that should not be too much of an issue with the passage of time. Lemon, grapefruit, crushed rocks and slate all jump from the glass in a tense, brilliant Chablis. This is a rare 2013 that is going to need bottle age to fully come together.
About the producer
Established in the late 1950s, William Fèvre was one of the leaders in Chablis’s renaissance. Today he crafts benchmark expressions of fine Chardonnay from some of the top vineyard sites in the region, working with many of the best Premier and Grand Cru vineyards.