2007 Barbaresco

The 2007 Barbaresco is gorgeous. From the translucent color, to the fresh, floral bouquet and bright red fruits, this entry-level bottling screams of Nebbiolo. What a beautiful wine! Sweet roses, berries, menthol and spices emerge in the glass adding further complexity. There is a tension between the ripeness of the vintage and the wine’s firm sense of structure that is utterly captivating. This is a huge overachiever from Bruno Rocca. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Bruno Rocca’s 2007 Barbareschi are among the stars of the vintage. The wines show fabulous finesse and elegance, while capturing the exuberant personality of the year. Importers: Trilussa Wine Company, Greenbrae CA; tel. (415) 499-8466; Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 530-4021

Barbaresco. Pale orange ruby. Savoury and somewhat tired on the nose. Astringent tannins. (WS)

Medium red with an amber rim. Dried flowers and spices on the nose, complicated by notes of menthol and underbrush. Richer and more pliant than the 2006, with a strong cinnamon character following through in the mouth. This has the stuffing to support its fine-grained tannins. In a warmer style than the 2006 but with plenty of medicinal reserve. Spreads out nicely on the back end. Rocca ages his Barbarescos in 50% new and 50% second- and third-use barriques.