2007 Puligny Montrachet

Reflecting a multiplicity of sites – the Enseignieres vineyard prominent among them – Boillot’s 2007 Puligny-Montrachet smells of heliotrope, orange blossom, lemon and peach. Sappy and dense on the palate, and rather firm in texture, it finishes bitter-sweetly on citrus rind, vanilla, peach, and peach kernel, with more than enough juicy brightness to refresh. Jean-Marc Boillot is now operating out of a re-modeled cellar and with a sophisticated new bottling line. His early harvest date in 2006 had been explicable on any number of levels, not least his personal preference for refreshment and minerality (as reflected in his love of classic – i.e., the presently endangered sort of – dry Alsace Riesling). But Boillot picked early in 2007, too – on August 28, no less, and for only 5 days – again citing his desire to retain acidity, and adding that encroaching botrytis was also a concern. “I think my 2007s will evolve a bit like 2004,” he predicts, “which gained volume in their elevage and in bottle and are proportional, not massive” making clear that both collections reflect his ideals. But he was clearly out to assist this process by having been strict about settling his musts, but then “done lots of batonnage.” Potential alcohols at harvest were in the low 12s and even after chaptalization, none of the finished wines reach 13%. Importers: A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70 and Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Musky hazelnut, minerals, truffle and vanillin oak on the nose, with the fruit in the background; could use a bit more lift. Ripe acids and solid minerality give freshness to the peachy fruit flavor. Finishes with good cut and lift. I'd give this a year or two before pulling the cork.

Scented and limey with a hint of syrup. Satin texture. Easy peasy though more evolved than most. (JR)