2019 Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes

Full bottle 1,354 g. From a plot on the extreme north of the appellation on the border with Meursault. Alluvium and brown limestone. Three-quarters of the vines are more than 80 years old while the rest were replanted in the 1990s. Almost brownish pale straw. Rich, nutty nose – quite unlike most Pulignys today which tend to be much more austere. Rather honeyed and gorgeous. It seems at peak now and, while it certainly isn't oxidised, it has clearly been exposed to quite a bit oxygen. Long and rich. Very distinctive. Surely there's a bit of residual sugar? But fun! (JR)