2005 Fixin

The 2005 Fixin displays marrow and roasted meats along with bitter-sweet black cherry fruit and high-toned suggestions of marzipan. Quite dense and firm on the palate, it finishes with decidedly chalky austerity but excellent grip. The fruit is relatively unobtrusively framed by 25% new wood. Between the effects of drought and of localized hail (in May, before it could effect quality) Jean-Nicolas Meo reported one of his smallest-ever harvests. His production, however, is being boosted these days by a range of negociant wines under the label “Meo-Camuzet Frere et Soeur” (marked “F&S” in the listing above). The top wines had been assembled in tank and sulfured in preparation for bottling, and were suffering a bit on account of this. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25.