2022 Morgon Grands Cras

Full bottle 1,325 g. Organic farming. The subtle trajectory of changes that I started to see from the 2019 vintage continues to track in Grands Cras: year-on-year elegance, translucent transmission of vineyard and vintage, tannins moving from defensive opposition to fluid, rippling-out ellipses of structure. The 2022 has the cool, mint-breath length of the 2021; the lustrous, liquid obsidian of the 2020. But it has its own slow-curl seduction of black-cherry fruit. A richness I've not seen before – a thrum of richness. A wine that carries the light, catch-in-the-breeze fragrance of hawthorn and blackthorn blossom (a tiptoe-bitter perfume that smells the way that apple pips taste and then softens to blackcurrant, fresh-apple-peel sweetness). But at the same time a wine that is underpinned by the cool, loamy-rich, deep-earth-ness that seems to frame all of Mee's wines. (TC)