2017 Lorcher Krone Riesling Trocken

From a site whose quartzite-laced slate is – exceptionally for this Rheingau sector – underlain by active lime-rich clay, comes a wine that definitely exhibits charred and chalky elements as well as an enhanced sense of cut and energy (putting me a bit in mind of how Schlossberg behaves among Zeltingen’s trio of Einzellagen). Pit-inflected white peach is laced with bittersweet, musky iris perfume both in the nose and on the polished and expansive palate. Seductive succulence of fruit goes hand in hand with utmost transparency to mineral nuances in a vibrantly-sustained finish, where the wine’s piquancy is perfectly placed to enhance its invigorating effect. Here is a case where relatively modest acidity and elevated pH that Fricke says are characteristic for this site (I would have guessed the opposite given its soil make-up) don’t in any way preclude animation and consumate refreshment. “In the past,” she says “I made Spätlese from the Krone and it never really tasted good. Well, no wonder: Krone doesn’t promote the acidity necessary to push back against sweetness, and there was no vibrancy.”

Grey slate with chalk subsoil. Some vines planted 1955. Part spontaneous ferment. Seven months on lees in tank.  Ripe stone fruit and pears, with a touch of spice and fine dusting of something stony, almost chalky, and dry to balance the ripeness of the fruit. Rich, spicy and mouhth-filling without loss of the precision and fresh intensity of Eva Fricke's wines. Full-bodied and powerful with amazing length. Dry but not bone dry. Spicy, almost chewy aftertaste. Fabulous balance. May well age longer but I have not tasted older vintages. (JH)