2015 Cartology Chenin Blanc/ Semillon

The first bottle of 2015 Cartology seems to show some premox on the nose. A second bottle is poured and it shows a bit more vigor, yet there is something muted here, neutral in style. The palate is sharp and linear on the entry, nicely fresh, yet it misses some complexity and doesn't translate the variety on the finish. Certainly, the bottle tasted several years ago showed better. Tasted blind at the 10-Year-On horizontal in London.

The 2015 Cartology is developing a succinct, quite gorgeous bouquet with jasmine, sea spray and a hint of linseed. There is real complexity within this Cartology, very focused and taut. The palate is vivid and bright, conveying real energy and poise with wonderful salinity towards the finish, touches of hazelnut and Chinese 5-spice on the aftertaste. This is a scintillating, quite cerebral Cartology that is going to give a lot of pleasure. Tasted at the Alheit seminar with Chris Alheit in London.

The most robust of the three vintages in this flight, suggests Alheit, who thinks the 2017 is better. Earliest pick in 60 years. Took everyone by surprise – he was on the beach. A lot of wines were on the big side. Had to leave home at 1.30 in the morning to pick in the Skurfberg at 6 am – refrigerated truck allowed them to take all the fruit in one go. Early and fast and healthy harvest. This has superb, bright, stony citrus on the nose. Richness, power and creamy lees texture. So deep and yet spicily fresh. Fragrant and fruity and symmetrical. A slight dustiness that counteracts the ripe creamy fruit. Ripe but beautifully fresh. An easy vintage. (JH)