2009 Cotes du Roussillon Bila Haut V.I.T

Tasted assembled from tank after recent racking, the 2009 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France v.i.t (the initials standing for "visitare interiore terrae") smells of fennel, rosemary, juniper, and abundant black fruits. Palate-saturating and caressing, it boasts abundant though fine tannins and a seamless ripeness free of any superficial sweetness. While this lacks the vibrancy or complexity of the corresponding 2008 or its evocative length, let's see what happens once it has settled down from racking and then had time to rest in bottle. It should be a candidate for at least a decade's aging. Michel Chapoutier's Roussillon domaine - for further details on which, consult my report in issue 183 - has taken on considerable additional acreage since I filed that last report, resulting in among other things a fascinating white cuvee in what had previously been an all-red portfolio, and the inclusion of more fruit - in black as well as white - from spectacularly-situated high-elevation, granite-rich, late-ripening sites in Lesquerde, well to the west of Latour-de-France. Gilles Troullier continues to direct vinification as well as viticulture (here biodynamic) like the seasoned maestro that he is. With few exceptions, the wines sing with clarity, purity, and complexity, not to mention performing well above what on the basis of price (save for that of the "v.i.t." cuvee) would deceptively appear to be their station. (For Chapoutier's wines from Banyuls, see under his own name in this report, as that is how those are labeled.) Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456