2018 Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Kabinett
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Tasting notes
Fresh pear and apple are tinged with ginger and sea breeze on the nose, then succulently deployed on a buoyant, polished palate. The mouthwateringly salt-tinged finish is transparent to shimmering stony notes and a mysterious ore-like earthiness surprisingly reminiscent of Hermannshöhle. “The grapes were almost too ripe for Kabinett,” remarked Dönnhoff of this bottling, “but you still have that citric sense of acidity.” Had he succumbed to his inclination to start picking a week later than the estate in fact did, we would not have a Krötenpfuhl Kabinett – an observation that Dönnhoff, with a smile, declines to contradict. The wine weighs in at 9.5% alcohol, and I don’t think it would have benefited from one gram less residual sugar than whatever it has.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The 2018 Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett is precise and aromatic on the nose, where ripe stone fruit (peach) aromas are displayed. Lush and round on the palate, this is a piquant and aromatic, very attractive and rather early-drinking Spätlese with remarkably fresh acidity. Stimulating. Tasted in July 2018.
TA 8.4 g/l, RS 51 g/l. Very ripe citrus on the nose and on the palate, super-intense lemon fruit. Surprising that this does not taste really sweet – it is sweet but the freshness is sufficient to balance, even though they had to acidify some lots in 2018. Juicy and creamy. Such intense citrus. Still very primary. (JH)