2014 Chablis 1er Cru Cote de Lechet
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Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
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The 2014 Chablis 1Er Cru Cote de Lechet has a crisp, tightly wound bouquet with detailed limestone, smoke and subtle hazelnut aromas, all very focused. The palate is very well balanced with a fine line of acidity, a lovely saline attack with just a hint of praline in the background, soon overtaken by quite potent and spicy white pepper notes on the finish. This is turning into a very fine and complex Chablis that will give several years of drinking pleasure.
(from vines planted in 1991, 1989 and 1972): Crushed stone, oyster shell and lime plus a resiny nuance on the nose. Sweet and thick but energetic too, conveying a light touch to the sappy flavors of grapefruit, crushed rock and minerals. Finishes brisk and strong. The 2014 malolactic fermentations finished in January, after which Tribut racked the wines from cuves into older barrels.
Pure but reticent aromas of lemon, oyster shell, baked bread and crushed rock. Richer than the village wine but less silky and harmonious today, with the strong mineral component framed by strong lemony acidity. Finishes with an iodine, chalky oyster shell character. The outgoing but very humble Tribut absolutely refuses to describe his own wines, although he admitted to being impressed with his brother-in-law Vincent Dauvissat's descriptors. "Vincent talks better than I do," he told me.