2021 Boggina B

This wine is enjoying an impressive growth trajectory. And it's made with 100% Trebbiano, which makes it even more particular. Once seen as a workhorse variety, Trebbiano reveals age-worthy qualities when made in the right hands. Starting off with initial flinty reductiveness, the Petrolo 2021 Bòggina B has an almost exotic bouquet with Indian spice, cumin and cardamom. The wine is fleshy and creamy in texture with a full-bodied style that is accented by medium acidity and waxiness. There is a distinctive note of canned corn or peach that dovetails into mineral or metallic notes. Oak-fermented and aged, some 10,000 bottles were made. It could use a touch more acidity, but there is enough for another 10 years of cellar aging.

The 2021 Boggina B (Trebbiano) is completely overpowered by reduction. In my experience, when young wines are this reduced, aging only makes matters worse. Perhaps the Boggina B will prove to be a rare exception, but I would not hold my breath. The Boggina B is doubly perplexing, given how much the other wines have exploded in quality here in recent years.

Unusual and compelling, with an edge of smoky reduction, then waves of honeydew melon, cut grass, pressed flowers, feels alive and vibrant. Spice arrives on the finish, even edges of tar and bergamot. Lovely wine from Luca Sanjust, 2.5ha estate with Tuscan Trebbiano selected in Valdarno and planted in the 1970s at Petrolo in the “Poggio” vineyard, recently replanted using the same original clones. As it approaches the 10 year anniversary of the inaugural 2014 vintage, this wine has carved out its place. Aged in large oak casks, on the lees with no racking until bottling.