2017 St Joseph Ste Epine

I loved the 2017 Saint Joseph Sainte Epine, a fine example of this cooler, granite terroir located just north of Tournon. Notes of graphite, camphor, scorched earth, and liquid rock all give way to a medium to full-bodied, focused, structured wine that has a terrific core of dark fruit, building tannins, and a great finish. It's going to need 4-5 years of bottle age, but it’s a beauty. Delas Frères continues to fire on all cylinders under the guidance of Jacques Granges, who came on board as the head winemaker in June of 1997. Jacques also has the talented Claire Darnaud helping with the winemaking and, unquestionably, the top wines here are world-class in every way. In addition, the estate has just completed construction on a new cellar located in the heart of Tain l’Hermitage. In addition to the single vineyard, the estate is also a treasure trove of value wines, both from the Northern and Southern Rhône.

The 2017 Saint Joseph Sainte-Epine comes from a couple of vineyards planted in 1981 on weathered granite soils geologically identical to those found in Hermitage's Les Bessards. Crushed stone, salted licorice and pencil shavings accent black cherries and black olives, while the full-bodied palate is velvety but structured, ripe and warm but firm and mouthwatering, with at least a decade of aging potential. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

Some brassy oak opens the nose here with a wealth of dark plums and brambly fruit on offer, as well as a plush dark-plum and berry core and such a fresh and fleshy note of sarsaparilla. Excellent depth. The oak will settle in here. Try from 2022.