2017 Riesling Alte Reben
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Tasting notes
Sourced entirely from quite ancient Saar vineyards (principally in Wiltinger Klosterberg, Wawerner Ritterpfad and Kanzemer Sonnenberg), this cuvée once again represents an unusually forceful expression of Saar Riesling that is more formidable than it is fun to drink. The penetratingly pungent nose mingles crushed mustard seed, bruised lemon peel and saline sweat, and a firm palate delivers corresponding incisiveness and piquancy as well as a welcome measure of salivary stimulation. The finish grips impressively, with a combination of salinity and primary juiciness that wards off outright austerity.
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
David Schildknecht, Vinous
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The 2017 Riesling Alte Reben is ripe yet fine and fresh on the pure, flinty-mineral and almost ascetic nose where ripe lemon aromas are displayed and intertwined with crushed stone notes. On the palate, this is a lush, round, pretty intense and concentrated yet refined and elegant Riesling that benefits from aeration, otherwise it might eventually be too overloaded with concentration. At least the 2017 is on the edge, and its charm is currently only facile, whereas the finish is substantially long, complex and very salty. The Alte Reben is less austere and edgy compared to the Wiltinger and offers more finesse right now bus also challenging mineral grip and citric freshness. Keep this promising 2017 for at least 5 to 10 years from now. 12% alcohol. Tasted from AP #12 in June 2019.