1995 Balmoral Shiraz

The estate-bottled 1995 Syrah Balmoral exhibits nearly excessive oak, but there is no doubting its sweet blackberry and cherry-scented nose with aromas of licorice and spicy new oak. As the wine sits in the glass, notes of bacon fat emerge. Fleshy, medium to full-bodied, and smoky, with excellent purity, this wine can be drunk now or cellared for 7-8 years. Importer: Rosemount Estates, Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4504

Dark ruby. Flamboyant, enticing aromas of black raspberry, graphite, smoked meat, cola and maple syrup. Thick, concentrated and creamy; sappy and deeply spicy. Gives an almost saline impression of extract. Has serious underlying structure for aging, but this is pliant and dense enough to give early pleasure. Very long, ripe aftertaste. Shows more fruit to support the oak than the '94.