2020 Riesling Alte Reben

Sourced entirely from quite ancient Saar vineyards (principally in Wiltinger Klosterberg, Wawerner Ritterpfad and Kanzemer Sonnenberg), the 2020 Riesling Alte Reben delivers a seemingly appropriate sense of density and flavor concentration – of apple and grapefruit, resinous herbs and crushed stone – but also displays greater opacity than the strikingly transparent and focused village-level Ortsweine that preceded it in Van Volxem’s vintage 2020 lineup. The feel here is firm. Chew of apple skin and bittersweetness of grapefruit peel, but also a hint of cooling mint extend the finish. It will be interesting to witness what time in the bottle brings.