2023 Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett
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Tasting notes
AP number 04 24. RS c 38 g/l. Very pale. Seductively but not excessively smoky and already complex. Creamy with lemon and just-ripe apricots. Deep yet still lively and expressively Kabinett. Both creamy and precise. (JH)
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 2023 Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett is pure, intense and elegant on the complex and substantial nose with stony and lemony notes. This Riesling is rich and mouth-filling and provided with ripe and sustainable mineral acidity and intense fruit. This is an expressive and terroir-driven Riesling with a seriously mineral expression. 9% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in January 2025.
AP number 04 24. Katharina Prüm tells me the residual sugar is roughly 35 g/l. Restrained, pure, limey citrus and lightly, peachily fragrant. Light-bodied, the peachiness contrasted with a very slight grip on the finish. Subtle but extremely approachable for a young Prüm. Fine, slatey finish. (JH)
The 2023 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett initially presents a reductive funk that takes time to dissipate, allowing only brief glimpses of green apple to peep through. However, the palate is superbly sprightly, vividly light and lemony fresh, skipping along light-heartedly without a care in the world. It airily and charmingly spreads its lemony perfume and charm. A quintessential, elfin Kabinett.
About the producer
Joh. Jos. Prüm is the benchmark estate of the Middle Mosel, renowned for Rieslings of exceptional delicacy, precision, and longevity. From the legendary slopes of Wehlener Sonnenuhr to Graacher Himmelreich, their wines capture a singular balance of lightness, tension and mineral purity.