2017 Barolo Brunate

A red with lovely ripe strawberry, spice and some flowers and leather. Dried orange peel, too. Full-bodied with firm, chewy tannins that are slightly mouth-puckering. It’s structured and rather powerful. Needs time to soften. Give it three or four years to soften. Try after 2024.

With fruit from La Morra, the 2017 Barolo Brunate presents a taut and tight bouquet of candied cherry, violets, orange peel and iron ore. The aromas are fluid and agile, yet they are also quite polished and focused. Indeed, this Brunate offers the greatest degree of complexity and sheer depth in this portfolio from the Marengo family of La Morra. Again, we see those extra tight tannins that are such a common feature of Barolo wines from the hot and dry 2017 vintage. This was a release of 4,800 bottles.

The 2017 Barolo Brunate shows why this is such a highly-regarded site. Powerful and deep, the 2017 has enough fruit and pedigree to keep the formidable tannins in check. Blue/purplish fruit, spice, leather, licorice and menthol gain volume as the 2017 opens in the glass. This brooding Barolo needs time in bottle, but it is pretty compelling, even in the early going.