2009 Pesus

The flagship 2009 Vina Sastre Pesus comes from some of the oldest Tempranillo vines, some of them planted in 1905. After a rigorous sorting the wine is aged in 200% new oak, the first for malolactic fermentation and then for maturation, before being bottled in glass so thick, it could survive an assassination. Having been introduced personally to the vines, I really wanted to find all that oak marrying in blissful harmony with the precocious fruit, yet there is no doubt that all that can be discerned aromatically is the wood. The palate is medium rather than full-bodied and is very fleshy and caressing in the mouth. Here, I do find that the oak is assimilated with the fruit and does not impinge too much. It has a very ripe, quite sweet sorbet-like finish, with a dab of alcohol at the back of the throat that is not particularly disturbing. It is a decadent, powerful, intense experience and it needs a serious amount of aging. For those lazy enough to think I am dogmatic about a lot of new oak – this is a deliriously delicious wine. But it needs 8- 10 years to fully absorb the wood. I wonder what it would be like with less oak? Drink 2018-2030. I visited Bodegas Hermanos Sastre on a sizzling afternoon: touring the vineyard, inspecting the vines and of course tasting the wines. Winemaker Jesus Sastre, a huge fellow bursting with energy and a dash of hubris, told me that he tries to harvest as late as possible and is generous with oak as he believes it lends to aging the wine better. The Roble wines spend 8 to 10 months in oak (50% used and 50% new). These are modern Ribera del Duero wines that at the top end pack a mighty punch, although they avoid pretentiousness and ostentation. Apart from the Pesus, they generally represent good value. Importer: Terroir 34; www.terroir34.com