2004 Barolo

Like the 2003, Einaudi's 2004 Barolo is another superb effort at this level. It offers gorgeous aromatics and well articulated fruit on a medium-bodied frame of notable elegance. This bottling is made from the less well-exposed parcels of the Via Nuova vineyard and was the only Barolo that was in bottle at the time of my November visit. The wine spent 16 months in barrique (40-50% new) followed by 15 months in 25 hectoliter casks.

Like the 2003, Einaudi’s 2004 Barolo is another superb effort at this level. It offers gorgeous aromatics and well articulated fruit on a medium-bodied frame of notable elegance. This bottling is made from the less well-exposed parcels of the Via Nuova vineyard and was the only Barolo that was in bottle at the time of my November visit. The wine spent 16 months in barrique (40-50% new) followed by 15 months in 25 hectoliter casks. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Consulting oenologist Beppe Caviola has been instrumental in ratcheting up the quality at this historic property. I can’t think of too many estates that have made such significant strides in just the last few years. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Very good full red. Musky red fruits, coffee, mocha, and nutty, smoky oak on the nose. Broad and very ripe but quite dry and closed. Not showing its fruit today but this became more lush in the middle with aeration. Finishes with broad, substantial, tongue-dusting tannins. This spent its first 18 months in barriques, 50% new, and then was moved into 25-hectoliter Slovenian ovals for nearly another year.