2010 Corton Charlemagne

Drouhin’s 2010 Corton-Charlemagne is impeccably refined from start to finish. Citrus, white flowers and mint all take shape in the glass. This finely sculpted, nuanced, utterly brilliant wine possesses fabulous intensity and pointedness through to the vibrant, polished finish. I love the pure unbridled energy here. This is an exceptional showing from Drouhin. Readers should note that I tasted the domaine bottling that is sold in the US. Drouhin also makes a maison Corton-Charlemagne that is sold elsewhere, but that I did not taste. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. This is a striking set of wines from Drouhin. Veronique Drouhin describes 2010 as a year with cool temperatures in July and August, but much better weather in September. As is the case throughout the region, I found the Pulignys especially ripe and exotic. I also tasted a range of the 2011s. Drouhin told me she thought the wines would need a little extra time in barrel to give them more body and volume. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

(not yet racked): Cool aromas of quinine, mint and peppery spices. At once dense and weightless, with a strong stony quality to its highly complex flavors of citrus, white peach, speamint and menthol. Builds impressively on the back half, finishing quite dry and perfumed, with hints of lemon and lime and a fine dusting of tannins.