2005 Gevrey Chambertin

Aromas of tart cherry fruit and licorice scent the 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin from the Seysses family negociant arm. Clear, pure cherry fruit on the palate, with a tactile spiciness, satisfyingly deep meatiness, and lingering sweetness, this suave, polished Gevrey largely hides its tannins and its 50% new wood. The already rich array of crus at Domaine Dujac has recently been augmented on two fronts. The purchase (along with de Montille) of the Societe Civile du Clos de Thorey (Thomas-Moillard) has brought them a raft of choice parcels including three new grand cru holdings (for a staggering total of eight). Meanwhile, they have expanded their negociant arm (with control over harvest and green harvest a prerequisite) to supplement in particular their volumes of village-level wine. (Those wines – labeled “Dujac Fils & Pere” – are signified in the above listing with “FP”. In fact, due to a legal technicality, the 2005 vintage wines from the properties newly acquired by the domaine – but not subsequent vintages – will also read “Fils & Pere” rather than “Domaine”.) Even with California-trained oenologist Diana Seysses (nee Snowden) joining her husband Jeremy and in-laws Jacques and Alec, and with a new winery (though at the old address) I wonder at how they are able to keep up with the magnitude of their responsibilities. Yet despite so many parcels and vines new to them this year, the results are consistently outstanding and at times astounding. Much of the vinification – increasingly as one goes up the hierarchy of crus – was of whole clusters. Malos finished (finally) by November and the wines were bottle in December and January. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel.(415) 491 4724

Good deep red. Black fruits, licorice and minerals on the nose. Juicy, bright black fruit flavors complicated by meat and a peppery nuance. Finishes with a firm spine of acids and tannins.