2008 Gewurztraminer Selection de Grains Nobles

Mint candy, quince preserves, and pure botrytis honey in the nose of Trimbachs’ 2008 Gewurztraminer Selection de Grains Nobles follow on a palate slick with glycerin and (at least as I imagine it) pure botrytis secretions. Some of the mineral elements that helped add interest and counterpoint to the corresponding V.T. are present, too, with notes of green tea and herbal essences adding a cooling and restraining element to the wine’s long, decidedly sweet, and surprisingly buoyant finish. I would personally wait 15 years to revisit this and expect at least another 15 of exemplary performance, but in circumstances where high residual sugar is not an impediment, I am sure one could have fun with it as soon as the Trimbachs see fit to release. “The oenologists were saying in 2009 ‘Oh we have to get approval so that we can add acidity,’ but it was absolutely unnecessary, for us,” notes Pierre Trimbach, who indeed delivered a surprisingly animated collection, albeit one diminished in size by instances of declassification. The Trimbachs compare their 2008s with 1998, adding that there is something of 2001 to them, too. As a group, they are going to further the reputation of wines from this family for rewarding patience. Importer: Esprit Du Vin French Wine Merchants & Select European Estates, 48 Harbor Park Drive, Port Washington, NY 11050; www.edvwines.com