2023 Dolcetto d'Alba
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Tasting notes
The 2023 Dolcetto d'Alba is a jewel-like magenta color and is lifted and fresh on the nose with highlights of red fruit accenting the pretty floral and darker berry notes of the Dolcetto, along with notes of fresh purple flowers, ripe berries, and wet stones. The palate offers brilliant intensity, complemented by electric acidity, ripe fruit, and a snappy, crunchy feel that persists through the finish. It offers a good deal of nervous energy at this early stage and will benefit from another 6-12 months in the bottle, although it should retain its poppy freshness for a considerable amount of time. Drink 2025-2035. The following wines were tasted at the estate, in the town of Barolo. With this release of the Barbera, they included a small portion of purchased fruit, which was necessary while their vineyard was being replanted between 2020 and 2022 due to Flavescence dorée. A phytoplasma disease, it has become a more widespread issue across regions in Italy and France, likely exacerbated by warmer spring and fall temperatures, and there’s no known cure at this time. The 2024 vintage was the first harvest from the new vines and will mark the return to producing Barbera solely from estate-grown fruit.
Critic scores
Average Score
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Jeb Dunnuck
More reviews and scores
With heat spikes exceeding 40 degrees Celsius after the 15th of August, this was not an easy year. Some grape skins suffered from sunburn, and the year saw below average rain and no snow in the mountains. The Bartolo Mascarello 2023 Dolcetto d'Alba required strict fruit selection executed by hand, cluster to cluster. The important factor was removing the berries with burnt skins across the varieties they work with. Nebbiolo yields were down 25% to 30% in 2023 as a result. Aged in oak for nine months, this wine offers dark fruit, raisin and baked plum aromas. It finishes on the short side because the skin-to-pulp ratio leans to more pulp in this vintage. You also get nicely balanced acidity in this medium-plus wine. In terms of Dolcetto, this wine speaks with a quieter voice, which ultimately makes for a nice surprise.
Mid crimson. Lifted, focused blueberry nose of great charm. Juicy, fresh blueberry and blackberry fruit. Viscous and long, with fine tannins. Long and aromatic and elegant. (WS)
The 2023 Dolcetto d'Alba is an absolute joy. Floral, medium in body and nervy, the 2023 is a super-classic wine that reminds me of Dolcettos from another time, but it has the fruit purity that is typical of the best Piedmont wines today. Readers will find a wine of understatement and class.
About the producer
Bartolo Mascarello is one of the most respected, traditionalist Barolo producers. The Piedmont estate makes one of the region’s finest expressions of Nebbiolo.