2023 Corton Charlemagne
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Tasting notes
From a 1.8-hectare south-facing parcel, this is a powerful wine. The nose is full of rich fruit, but with smoky gunflint that keeps it in check, as well as a savoury, earthy note. The weighty fruit follows through on the palate, broad and full, but it’s far from dense – with limey nuance and a long, biting finish.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
More reviews and scores
This concentrated, focused chardonnay is still tightly wound, but the stony minerality builds impressively, and the citrusy vitality gives it an impression of lightness in spite of the abundant power. Be patient until all of this can fully resolve, because the mineral drive in the finish promises great things to come. Drinkable now but best from 2027.
The 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot) is another terrific rendition of this bottling, which might well be the most underrated of the house's grand cru whites. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, confit lemon, petrol, vanilla pod and toasty reduction, it's full-bodied, satiny and rich, with a layered, dense mid-palate and a long, mineral finish. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier and his team have once again delivered a strong portfolio chez Jadot. Barnier stressed the importance of sorting and of vigilance during élevage, in particular where acid rot made an appearance, and he didn't hesitate to perform a saignée for cuvées where yields where high. As I've written before, in the cellar, foudres and 500-liter barrels now complement classic 228-liter pièces, a further evolution adapting to warmer, riper vintages. What's more, barrels are now used four rather than three times, meaning the percentage of new oak overall has fallen. A cold room also helps chill down any fruit that's too warm when it enters the winery, something especially important during the warm 2023 harvest. This vintage also marks the third vintage of organic conversion for the Domaine Louis Jadot and the Domaine Gagey.
The 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot) is another terrific rendition of this bottling, which might well be the most underrated of the house's grand cru whites. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, confit lemon, petrol, vanilla pod and toasty reduction, it's full-bodied, satiny and rich, with a layered, dense mid-palate and a long, mineral finish.
About the producer
Louis Jadot is arguably the most consistent négociant house in Burgundy. It has managed to straddle both the entry-level and fine wine market, while retaining respect in both.