2023 Kevin John Chardonnay

Wente and Gingin clones. Vines planted in 1976 and 1988 on granite and sandy loams. Dry-farmed. Hand-harvested across three weeks according to the biodynamic calendar. Whole-bunch basket-pressed and 12% of the juice racked to amphorae for two days’ skin contact before being pressed to barrel. Fermentation with ambient yeast, of which 10% was in a concrete egg, with amphorae and puncheons also used. 100% malolactic conversion and 8 months in 80% new oak puncheons. No fining, filtration or cold stabilisation. TA 6 g/l, pH 3.25, RS 2.2 g/l. Certified biodynamic. Subtle melon and creamy citrus. Full and deep in the mouth – wonderful concentration without heaviness, the oak and alcohol fully integrated. Light smoky/mineral note. Chewy texture. Immense presence, freshness and persistence. Mouth-watering, succulent, alive. (JH)

I love this wine. The 2023 vintage in Margaret River was utterly sensational, and this is reflected in the wines. Here, the 2023 Kevin John Chardonnay is complex, layered, precise, powerful, texturally wide and very long. It is superb in both an Australian context and global as well. This is one not to be missed. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

I like this very much, the intensity dial turned down a notch, and there is an even flow of fruit-weight and freshness, with a curb of well-placed phenolics. The epithet is one of strident poise and restrained fruit, long and detailed across the mid-weighted palate. The oak is beautifully nestled, melding with a subtle nuttiness, effortlessly sublimated into the greater whole. An excellent Kevin John. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2027. Screw cap.