2023 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay
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Tasting notes
The 2023 Estate Chardonnay leads with preserved citrus, white flowers, crushed nuts and brine. In the mouth, the wine is light and lacy—hints of green apple, nectarine and a little tangerine—with taut acidity that vibrates through the ethereally weighted fruit. It's a light iteration of this wine and lovely for it. It was made with handpicked fruit, whole-bunch pressed and barrel fermented using indigenous yeasts. 12.5% alcohol's sealed under screw cap.
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Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
More reviews and scores
A blend of six different sites in Kumeu on clay with 60% owned by the Brajkoviches but all farmed by Milan B. All dry-farmed. Lots of different clones: 15, 6, 95, 54 and 1066. H and-harvested. Whole-bunch pressed. Spontaneous fermentation in used French oak barrels (usually 20% new but not for this lighter vintage). 100% malo. 11 months’ maturation in barrel. Distinctly lemon nose and mouth-filling. Good substance on the palate and definition. Great drink for the near term! Quite a step up from the Village. Athletic. I asked about ageability and was assured by Paul Brajkovich that the 2019 is looking very good now. Neat finish. (JR)
A blend of several parcels in and around Kumeu, the 2023 Chardonnay Estate is done in a lighter, skip-along style than most recent vintages. Athletic with a tight, acid-driven finish, the wine's fruit is in the cooler, citrussy spectrum. A leesy texture builds some softness through the light-bodied core. A subtle hint of nuttiness lingers on the medium-length finish.