2008 Charmes-Chambertin

The predominantly herbal aromas of Raphet's 2008 Charmes-Chambertin - like those found in other recent renditions - may well reflect the youthfulness of most of his vines in this appellation. There is also ample ripe berry fruit, a polished palate, and a finish tinged with suggestions of chalky minerality. But overall this doesn't especially distinguish itself and I would plan on drinking it within the next 3-4 years as I doubt it will offer much intrigue or more than modest sensual appeal. Incidentally, this bottling is all from true Charmes. Raphet has a few parcels in Mazoyeres but typically sells off their juice or young wine to a negociant. Gerard Raphet's 2008s finished malo by the end of the following January, which is amazingly early for this vintage, and not necessarily advantageous. (He suspects the environment of his new facility has something to do with that rapidity.) He bottled them last January. As a group these wines are not particularly dark or youthful in color, nor do they for the most part exhibit the sort of brightness that I associate with their vintage. That said, they are generous and charming, often with attractively-integrated hints of caramelization. Yields were way down in both 2007 and 2008, notes Raphet, though one can hardly attribute any special degree of vinous concentration to this fact. In common with me, Raphet finds his 2007s - which to my surprise held their own vis-a-vis 2008 - ideal for drinking young. Peter Vezan Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93