1990 Brunello di Montalcino

This excellent estate has turned out two large-scaled, tannic, backward Brunellos that appear to be among the more concentrated wines of the vintage. The dark ruby-colored 1990 Brunello di Montalcino (green label) displays a tight, backward nose of spice, leather, herbs, and dusty black-cherry fruit. Full-bodied, as well as excruciatingly tannic, this firm, backward wine needs 5-6 years of cellaring. It may not completely resolve its tannin (somewhat akin to my feeling on the 1975 Bordeaux vintage) as it evolves over the next 20 years. Importer: Palace Brands (Phil Di Belardino); tel. (800) 729-3372