2013 Volnay Champans
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Tasting notes
Bright ruby-red. Sexy nose combines currant, mocha, coffee, earth and caramel oak, plus a cinnamon high note. Plush and rich but with lovely integrated acidity framing and intensifying the cherry, redcurrant and spice flavors. This brisk, intense, shapely wine shows an attractive combination of acids and tannins and finishes with noteworthy persistence. Two-thirds of this vineyard is 95 years old, notes Lafon, adding that "probably barely 20% of these vines have been replanted."
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(four barrels produced, one new; the three old barrels finished their malos in September): Bright ruby-red. Superripe aromas of black raspberry, smoke and mocha. Large-scaled and rich but juicy too, with supple flavors of redcurrant and spices. More red-fruit in character than the other 2013s here, in spite of its full ripeness. In a distinctly sturdy style.
The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru les Champans is bestowed a more powerful nose than the Clos des Chenes with perfumed, floral red and black fruit, the new oak nicely interwoven. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe and succulent tannins, real depth and body here with great nervosité on the detailed, almost electrifying finish. What a fantastic Champans from Dominique Lafon! This should be sensational once in bottle.
33% new oak (which encourages malolactic fermentation because much cleaner and less SO2). Polished and racy and round fruit. Some moss and richness. Real red fruits with perfume and real density. Still a little gassy but great drive. (JR)