2014 Centgrafenberg Spatburgunder Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Pale garnet colour. Dried red fruit, bracken, moss, smoke, a touch of juniper bitterness on the finish. Maturing well but I wouldn't want to age this much further. (RH)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Smoky, vegetal, black cherry, dark chocolate, mixed spice, aniseed, soy – certainly shows all the terroir that Pinot Noir is valued for. Still super-youthful. Intense but not trying too hard. Dark-fruit spectrum – more Nuits than Beaune, if you were going to draw comparisons. (RH)
Every new vintage I discover that the Centgrafenberg is right up there in my list of all-time Spätburgunder greats, and even in a difficult vintage like 2014 its intricate composition of facets catches my enthusiasm. Spicy, smoky, mineral are just a few of the fragrant nuances, add dark fruit, chocolate and a faint herbal breeze, and complexity waits just around the corner of a further couple of years. The fine-tuning of tannins is exemplary, leaving enough room for fruit and minerality to express themselves. The benefit of experience is a wonderful thing! (MS)