2023 Schloss Johannisberger Spätlese Grünlack
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The 2023 Schloss Johannisberg Grünlack Riesling Spätlese is deep, pure and precise in its aromatic fruit that is ripe yet still fresh and doesn't show the pinkish overripe aromas that characterize many Prädikatsweine of the 2023 vintage (perhaps only a little bit). Round and juicy on the palate, this is a remarkably fine and elegant Spätlese with ripe, crystalline acidity and a stimulating savory, saline and finely grippy or crunchy finish. Medium-weight and sportive, with a straight rather than playful character at this stage, this is a precise and age-worthy Spätlese in a pretty unique style. It's also very promising for the long distance. 8.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2024.
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Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
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The 2023 Riesling Schloss Johannisberg Grünlack Spätlese was picked in the lowest reaches of the Johannisberg slope, where soils are deeper and more water is available, made from ripe grapes with about 15% of fruit affected by botrytis. It was made in stainless steel only. Tangerine and lime unite on the nose, carrying right through to the palate where a lovely tea-leaf edge borders vivid, rounded peach compote. Beautiful, very pure and complete, it’s so very zesty on the finish. (Sweet)
This conclusively proves that riesling Spatlese is a category capable of enormous greatness. Titanic concentration and precision on the incredibly ripe and focused palate. Yes, in some sense this is medium-bodied and is off-dry, but it blasts away all those categories to be entirely itself and do its own thing. As much succulence as wet stone freshness, plus an energy that says you should stand back if you’re not sure that you’re strong enough for the long, stunning finish. Decades of aging potential. From organically grown grapes.