2021 Grands Echezeaux

Higher yields here because part of the vineyard was protected from the frost by bougies (candles). Co-director Perrine Fenal describes Échezeaux and Grands Échezeaux as more like cousins than brothers this year. Vines on average 30 years old. Yield 21.6 hl/ha. Bottled 17 March 2023. Total production 742 cases of 12. Mid to light ruby. Darker fruited than the Échezeaux. Smells as I imagine wild raspberries might, with a light wood/cedary character adding a savoury aspect to the dark-red fruit. Firm, layered, paper-fine tannins give you something to bite on but they are still ineffably fine in texture. Sober, elegant, pure, dark restraint. Intense and yet has a modesty about it. Immensely long. (JH)

The 2021 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru was picked on September 23 and 24 at 21.6hL/ha, which is more than the Echézeaux. Initially, nosing the two aforementioned wines, they seem uncharacteristically neck-and-neck and with similar fruit profiles. Then, it opens with aeration, just eases down on the accelerator pedal, red berry fruit deepening and joined by scents of forest floor, hints of morels and Earl Grey. Superb delineation and focus. The palate is certainly much deeper and more harmonious than the Echézeaux, with raspberry, cranberry, white pepper and just a touch of graphite. This has more dimension to it and definitely much more persistence on the finish, even if not the most concentrated Grands Echézeaux. Wonderful, though it deserves longer in bottle. 742 cases produced.