2017 Biserno

The 2017 Biserno is a prototypical modern Bolgheri red built on explosive power and textural intensity. Rich and ample, with tons of pure richness, the 2017 Biserno is so alluring. This blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot is exceptionally vivid and beautiful today. Dark fruit, espresso, cloves and new French oak build into a crescendo of aromas, flavors and textures. It will drink well for another decade or so, but I don’t get the impression of a wine built for the long haul.

The Tenuta di Biserno 2017 Biserno is hushed at first, almost sottovoce, and it builds its intensity carefully and slowly one little decibel at a time. The aromas expand, the acidity brightens and the tannins flesh out as the wine opens in the glass. These elements come together with narrowing focus. This is a seamless and incredibly smooth blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot that offers a full gamut of dark fruit, spice and cured tobacco. Given ample time to open, the generosity of the bouquet is not necessarily matched by the mouthfeel that ultimately feels a bit pinched or short on the close. This is a common characteristic I saw in many of the other blended Tuscan reds made in this scorching hot vintage.